You just got a new fish finder for your kayak. You open the box, hold the transducer, and then look at your boat’s smooth, rounded deck. That’s the moment you realize the mounting is going to take some thought. A wobbly mount means a useless screen and a transducer that reads air instead of water. It also means drilling holes in a boat you probably paid good money for.
This guide walks you through the entire process of installing a YakAttack fish finder mount, specifically the LockNLoad base and the 60° TurnKey adapter. You’ll learn what tools to gather, how to pick the right spot on your track, how to drill clean pilot holes without cracking the hull, and how to route the transducer cable so it doesn’t snag on a paddle stroke. The goal is a rock-solid install that survives a season of abuse.
We’ll also cover the common mistakes, like stripped screws in thin plastic and misaligned tracks, so you can avoid them the first time. You’ll finish with a clear checklist to confirm your setup is water-ready.
One of the cleanest ways to get there is the YakAttack Round Base Fish Finder Mount. It uses the LockNLoad system, which locks the head in place so it won’t rotate or slip when you hit a wake. It fits the standard 3-hole round base found on the Garmin Striker 4 and the Raymarine Dragonfly 7 Pro, and it mounts directly to YakAttack GearTrac or MightyMount rails.
Tools and Materials You Need Before Starting
Gathering everything before you touch the kayak saves you from a mid-project trip to the hardware store. Here is the exact list I use for most installs.
- YakAttack GearTrac track section (if your kayak doesn’t already have one installed)
- YakAttack LockNLoad base plate and 60° TurnKey adapter
- Fish finder head unit with its original mounting bracket
- Stainless steel screws – #8 x 3/4 inch pan head works for most hulls. The kit includes hardware, but having spares helps.
- Drill with variable speed, not a cordless impact driver for the drilling step
- Drill bits: 1/8 inch pilot bit for plastic, 3/16 inch for fiberglass
- Countersink bit – optional but prevents gel coat cracks
- Marine-grade sealant – 3M 5200 or similar, but use it sparingly
- Masking tape
- Pencil or a fine-tip marker
- Level – a small torpedo level works best
- Rag and rubbing alcohol for cleaning the surface
- Zip ties and adhesive cable clips for cable management
One thing to note: the supplied screws are decent, but they are not magic. If your kayak has thin plastic (less than 1/8 inch), those screws will pull out under the leverage of a heavy head unit. We’ll get to the fix for that in the troubleshooting section.
Choosing the Right Track Position on Your Kayak
Track placement is the decision that determines whether you’ll be craning your neck all day or glancing down comfortably. Most anglers want the screen within arm’s reach, about 12 to 18 inches from the seat, and positioned so you can see it without leaning forward.
Think about your paddle stroke. If the mount sits too far forward, your paddle shaft will hit the screen on every stroke. Too far back, and it interferes with your PFD or your rod holder. A good rule: sit in the kayak with your paddle in hand, simulate a few strokes, and mark where your hands travel. Keep the mount at least 6 inches clear of that path.
Also consider the transducer arm, if you’re running one. The arm needs to reach the waterline without bending awkwardly. If your track is too high on the gunwale, the arm will point down at a steep angle, which looks odd but often works. If it’s too low, the arm may drag in the water during turns.
For kayaks with factory-installed tracks, like the Perception Outlaw or the Jackson Coosa, the stock position is usually fine. For boats without tracks, you have two choices: mount a GearTrac section using screws, or use the YakAttack MightyMount, which clamps onto a round or oval rail. The clamp option avoids drilling entirely, but it adds a little height. I prefer the recessed track for a lower profile and a cleaner look.
Step-by-Step Installation: LockNLoad and TurnKey Mount
This is the core process. Take your time here. Rushing the alignment step is the most common reason mounts end up crooked.
Marking and Drilling the Pilot Holes
Start by cleaning the area where the track will go. Use rubbing alcohol and a rag to remove any grease or wax. Dry it completely.
Place the track on the deck in your chosen spot. Use a piece of masking tape to hold it in place, but don’t rely on the tape for alignment. Use a level to make sure the track is parallel to the hull centerline. A crooked track means a crooked fish finder screen, and that will drive you nuts all day.
Once you’re happy with the position, take a fine-tip marker and trace the outline of the track onto the deck. Also mark the screw holes. Remove the track.
Now drill the pilot holes. For a plastic kayak, use a 1/8 inch bit. For fiberglass, step up to a 3/16 inch bit and run the drill in reverse first to avoid chipping the gel coat. Drill straight down, not at an angle. Keep the drill speed low and let the bit do the work. Do not push hard.
Here is the physics tip: plastic hulls flex. When you tighten a screw into a flexing area, the screw can strip out later. If you’re drilling near the edge of the deck, consider adding a small backing plate on the underside. A scrap piece of plastic or a fender washer works. You’ll need to reach under the deck to hold it, which is a two-person job on some kayaks.
After drilling, deburr the holes with a countersink bit or a utility knife. This removes the raised plastic edges and gives the screw head a flat seat.
Securing the Track and Attaching the Mount
Apply a small bead of marine sealant around each pilot hole. This keeps water from seeping into the core material of the hull, which causes delamination in fiberglass and rot in wood-core boats. A little goes a long way.
Place the track back on the deck, aligning it with your marks. Insert the stainless steel screws and tighten them by hand with a screwdriver. Do not use a drill to drive them. You want to feel the resistance. Stop when the screw head is snug against the track. Over-tightening strips the plastic, and once it’s stripped, it’s done.
Now slide the LockNLoad base plate onto the track. The base has a T-shaped foot that slides into the channel. Position it where you want it. Lock it down by turning the knob clockwise. You should feel a firm click when it’s seated. Give it a tug to confirm it’s locked.
Attach the 60° TurnKey adapter to the LockNLoad base. The TurnKey has a round base with three holes that match the standard fish finder pattern. Line up the holes, insert the bolts, and tighten them with a wrench. The TurnKey’s name comes from its locking mechanism: you rotate the head to adjust the angle, then turn the key to lock it in place. The 60° range is enough for most kayak seating positions, but you’ll need to loosen the key and re-tighten it to change the angle significantly.
Routing the Transducer Cable Through the GearTrac
This step separates a clean install from a rat’s nest. The GearTrac channel is hollow, and you can run the transducer cable through it, but it takes some patience.
First, disconnect the transducer cable from the head unit. Feed the connector end through the track channel from the open end. If your track is closed at both ends, you’ll need to remove one of the end caps. They pop off with a flathead screwdriver.
Use a pull string or a piece of stiff wire to guide the cable through the channel. A coat hanger works, but a purpose-made cable puller is easier. Thread the wire through, attach the cable to it with tape, and pull it through. Go slow. The cable can snag on the interior ribs of the track.
Once the cable is through, route it to the transducer mount location. Use adhesive cable clips along the hull to keep it flush. Leave a little slack at the transducer end so you can move the arm without pulling the connector loose.
Here’s a detail most installers miss: the cable should not cross under the track where the LockNLoad base slides. The base’s T-foot will pinch the cable and eventually cut it. Route the cable around the end of the track instead.
Testing Stability and Adjusting the 60° TurnKey Angle
Before you hit the water, test the mount on dry land. Attach the fish finder head unit to the TurnKey adapter. Give it a good shake. If it wobbles, check the LockNLoad base lock and the TurnKey’s key. Both should feel solid.
Now sit in the kayak in your normal paddling position. Adjust the TurnKey angle so the screen faces you directly. The 60° range is generous, but you might find you want the screen tilted up slightly to reduce glare. Loosen the key, adjust, and re-tighten. It takes about ten seconds.
One thing I learned the hard way: test the angle with your PFD on. The extra bulk changes your posture, and what looked good without it will be off by a few degrees. Adjust it while wearing your life jacket.
If the mount flexes when you push on it, the problem is likely the track screws, not the mount itself. Tighten them a quarter turn, but stop if you feel resistance. If they’re already snug, the issue is hull flex. You’ll need a backing plate or a different mounting location.
Common Installation Mistakes and How to Fix Them
Everyone makes at least one of these mistakes. Here’s how to recover.
Stripped screws in thin plastic. This is the most common failure. The fix is a backing plate. Remove the track, drill out the holes to 1/4 inch, and insert a well-nut. A well-nut is a rubber sleeve with a threaded insert that expands when you tighten the screw. It grips the hull from the inside and won’t strip. They cost about $5 for a pack of ten.
Misaligned track. If you drilled the holes slightly off, the track will sit crooked. You can’t re-drill the same holes. Fill the old holes with marine epoxy, let it cure, and re-drill in the correct position. It’s a hassle, but it’s better than a crooked screen.
Over-tightening the LockNLoad knob. The knob is plastic. Crank it too hard and you’ll strip the threads. Tighten it until it’s snug, then give it a gentle extra quarter turn. That’s it.
Cable pinched under the track. If the transducer cable runs under the track, the LockNLoad base will crush it. Reroute the cable around the end of the track. It’s a 10-minute fix that saves you from buying a new transducer.
Drilling too fast. High-speed drilling generates heat, which melts the plastic and creates an oversized hole. Use a low speed and let the bit cut. If you see smoke, you’re going too fast.
Comparing Mount Options: YakAttack vs. Scotty vs. RAM
You might be wondering if the YakAttack system is worth the money compared to other brands. Here’s a quick comparison based on my experience with all three.
| Feature | YakAttack LockNLoad | Scotty Round Base | RAM Mount |
|---|---|---|---|
| Locking mechanism | LockNLoad twist lock | Friction fit | Rubber ball and socket |
| Rotation under load | None when locked | Can slip in rough water | Holds position but can creep |
| Compatibility with GearTrac | Native, slides directly | Requires adapter plate | Requires adapter plate |
| Tool-less adjustment | Yes, TurnKey knob | No, needs wrench | Yes, hand-tighten |
| Weight capacity | Handles large units | Good for small units | Depends on ball size |
| Corrosion resistance | Stainless hardware | Plastic and aluminum | Stainless and aluminum |
| Price range | Mid-range | Budget-friendly | Mid-to-high |
The Scotty mount is fine for a small unit on a calm lake. But it uses a friction fit, so a big wave can twist the screen sideways. The RAM mount is versatile, but the rubber ball can degrade in UV over time. The YakAttack LockNLoad is the only one of the three that locks positively with no play. That’s why it’s my pick for a kayak that sees any rough water.
Final Checklist: Is Your Mount Water-Ready?
Before you launch, run through this list. It takes two minutes and prevents a frustrating day on the water.
- Track screws are snug, not stripped, and sealed with marine sealant.
- LockNLoad base is locked onto the track and doesn’t slide when you push it.
- TurnKey adapter is tightened to the head unit with no wobble.
- Transducer cable routes clear of the track channel and moving parts.
- Cable clips hold the line flush to the hull, with no loops to snag a paddle.
- Screen angle is set while wearing your PFD.
- All hardware is stainless steel, not zinc-plated.
If you checked every box, you’re ready. The mount will hold through paddle strokes, wind, and the occasional rough landing. Go catch something.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will the YakAttack LockNLoad fit my Garmin Striker 4?
Yes. The Garmin Striker 4 uses a standard 3-hole round base pattern. The TurnKey adapter matches that pattern exactly. You’ll use the bolts included with the YakAttack mount, not the ones from Garmin, because they’re slightly longer.
Can I mount this on a kayak without a GearTrac track?
You need some kind of track or rail. The LockNLoad base slides into a GearTrac channel. If your kayak has no track, you can install a GearTrac section yourself using the drill-and-screw method described above, or use the YakAttack MightyMount if you have a round or oval rail.
How much weight can the LockNLoad base hold?
The base itself is rated for heavy use, but the weak point is always the track screws and the hull material. On a solid plastic hull with proper backing, it will hold a 10-inch screen without issue. On thin plastic without backing, a heavy unit will pull the screws out. Use a backing plate if you’re unsure.
What’s the difference between the LockNLoad and the older screw-in base?
The older base used a threaded post that you screwed into a track insert. The LockNLoad uses a clamping mechanism that tightens from the top. The LockNLoad is faster to adjust and less likely to loosen over time. The screw-in base is cheaper and still works, but it can vibrate loose on rough water.
Can I leave the mount on my kayak in the sun?
The plastic parts are UV-stabilized, so they won’t fade or crack quickly. The stainless steel hardware won’t rust. The only thing to watch is the rubber O-rings on the TurnKey, which can dry out after a few seasons. Replace them if they look cracked.
Last Thoughts Before You Drill
Installing a fish finder mount is a one-time job if you do it right. The YakAttack system is forgiving because the LockNLoad base lets you adjust the position on the track without re-drilling holes. That’s a huge advantage over fixed mounts.
Take your time on the pilot holes. Use the right drill bit. Seal everything. Route the cable properly. Do those four things and you’ll never think about the mount again, which is exactly how it should be.
If you’re still deciding on a mount, the YakAttack Round Base Fish Finder Mount is a solid choice. It’s built in the USA, comes with a lifetime guarantee, and the LockNLoad system genuinely works as advertised. Check the current price on Amazon to see if it fits your budget.
Now go install that mount and get back to fishing.
