Master the Art: Changing Fishing Reel from Left to Right Effortlessly

You’re on the water, finally getting a steady bite, and you reach to reel in — but your hand instinctively goes to the wrong side. The handle is on the left, you’re right-handed, and every retrieve feels awkward. It’s a small annoyance that can cost you a hookset or just make a long day feel longer. The fix is simpler than most anglers think, but only if your reel is actually built to switch.

This guide walks you through the entire process — from checking if your reel is convertible to swapping the handle on both spinning and fly reels, plus what to do when things go wrong. You’ll also learn when switching sides is a smart move and when it’s a waste of time. By the end, you’ll know exactly what to do with any reel you own, no guesswork.

If you’re dealing with a Daiwa baitcaster or fly reel that needs a handle adapter, the Chiffonade 4PCS Fishing Reel Handle Adapter Kit converts 8x5mm holes to 7x4mm — a common mismatch when swapping handles between reels. It’s a simple press-fit kit, no tools needed, and comes with four adapters so you have spares for other reels or quick field repairs.

Why Switch Your Reel Handle Side?

Most anglers assume left-hand retrieve (handle on the left) is for left-handed people. That’s not how it works. In baitcasting, the handle is on the right for right-handed casters — you cast with your right hand, then switch to your left to reel. Spinning reels are the opposite: the handle is on the left by default for right-handed anglers, so you can cast and reel with the same hand without switching.

But everyone’s different. Some right-handed anglers prefer the handle on the right because it feels more natural for their wrist motion. Others switch because of an old shoulder injury or just habit from using a certain reel brand for years. There’s no right answer — only what feels smooth and lets you focus on the bite, not the mechanics.

Switching sides can also help with casting accuracy. When your dominant hand controls the rod and the reel handle is on the other side, you keep your casting hand steady and use your off-hand for reeling. That’s a huge advantage for finesse techniques where you need to feel every tick on the line. But if you’re used to reeling with your dominant hand, switching might cause fatigue faster — your off-hand isn’t as coordinated, so you grip harder and tire quicker.

Before you start turning screws, ask yourself two questions: Is the reel designed for conversion? And will the new side actually improve your fishing? If you can’t answer both, keep reading.

Tools You’ll Need for the Job

Most spinning reels need just a few basic tools. Here’s what to have on hand:

• Flathead screwdriver (size to match the handle nut)
• Phillips screwdriver (for some models with screws instead of nuts)
• Small parts tray or a towel to catch washers and spacers
• Reel grease or oil (for while you’re in there)
• Clean cloth for wiping old grease off the drive shaft

Some reels use a simple screw cap that you twist off by hand. Others need a wrench — check your reel’s parts diagram or manufacturer instructions. If you don’t have the manual, look up the model online. It takes two minutes and saves you from stripping a screw.

One more thing: work over a clean surface. Those little washers bounce and disappear fast. A white towel or a magnetic tray makes a huge difference.

Step-by-Step: Changing a Spinning Reel Handle

Here’s the core process for a standard spinning reel. It works for most models from Shimano, Daiwa, Penn, and others, but always confirm your reel is convertible first.

Step 1: Remove the Handle Nut and Washers

Turn the reel upside down so the handle is facing you. You’ll see a nut in the center of the handle — sometimes it’s a screw cap with a slot for a flathead, sometimes it’s a hex nut. Loosen it counterclockwise. Don’t force it; if it’s stuck, apply a drop of penetrating oil and wait a minute.

Once the nut is off, slide the handle off the drive shaft. You’ll likely find a few washers or spacers underneath. Keep them in order — take a photo with your phone before you remove anything. That photo will save you later when you’re trying to remember which washer goes where.

Step 2: Slide the Handle Off the Drive Shaft

With the nut off, the handle should pull straight off. If it doesn’t budge, check for a small screw on the side of the handle that locks it in place. Some reels have that. Loosen it, then slide the handle off.

Inspect the drive shaft while it’s exposed. Wipe off old grease and look for any rust or wear. This is a good time to apply a light coat of fresh grease to the shaft — it’ll make the handle turn smoother and prevent corrosion, especially in saltwater.

Step 3: Install the Handle on the Opposite Side

Flip the handle over and align it with the drive shaft on the other side. The shaft should slide right into the handle’s hole. If it’s tight, don’t hammer it — check that you’ve removed any washers that were only meant for the original side.

Some reels have a cap or cover that plugs the hole on the side you’re not using. If your reel came with one, put it in place before you install the handle. It keeps dirt and water out.

Slide the handle on until it sits flush. Then add the washers back in the same order you removed them. If the handle feels loose or wobbles, you might have missed a spacer — check your photo.

Step 4: Reattach the Nut and Test the Drag

Screw the nut back on and tighten it snug. Don’t overtighten — hand tight plus a quarter turn is usually enough. Overtightening can strip the threads or make the handle hard to turn.

Now test the drag. Turn the handle and feel for any roughness or binding. Then set the drag to a light setting and pull line off the spool by hand. The handle should stay still while line pulls out — that’s the anti-reverse working. If the handle spins backward when you pull line, the anti-reverse bearing might need adjustment (more on that next).

How to Convert Fly Reels (Click-Pawl Systems)

Fly reels are a different beast. Many use a click-pawl system — a spring-loaded pawl that presses against a gear to create drag and click. The pawl is often reversible, which also changes the retrieve direction.

Start by removing the spool. Most fly reels have a simple latch or a screw that releases the spool from the frame. Once the spool is out, look for the pawl — a small metal piece with a spring. It sits against the gear on the inside of the frame.

Flip the pawl over or move it to the other slot, depending on the design. Some reels have two pawl positions, one for left-hand retrieve and one for right. Check your reel’s parts diagram or manufacturer instructions — this is not a place to guess. If you force the pawl into the wrong position, you can break the spring.

Reinstall the spool and test the retrieve. The click should be consistent, and the drag should engage only in the direction you set. If it doesn’t, the pawl might be worn or the spring might be weak — replace them before you hit the water.

Troubleshooting Common Conversion Problems

Swapping the handle is easy, but things can go sideways. Here’s what to do when they do.

The handle wobbles after installation. That usually means a missing spacer or washer. Check the drive shaft for a small groove where a spacer should sit. If you lost one, order a replacement before using the reel — a wobbling handle wears out the gear train fast.

The reel makes a grinding noise when you turn the handle. You probably installed the handle on the wrong side of the anti-reverse mechanism. Some reels have a bearing that only engages one way. Spin the handle backward a few times and listen. If the noise persists, take the handle off and check for any debris or a misaligned washer.

Stripped screws on the handle nut. This happens when you use the wrong size screwdriver or overtighten. If the screw head is rounded, use a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw for extra grip. If that fails, a screw extractor kit works — they’re cheap and available at any hardware store.

The drag doesn’t work after switching. The drag system is separate from the handle, but if you had the reel open, you might have knocked a drag washer loose. Open the spool and check the drag stack. Reassemble it in the correct order — again, a photo from before you started helps.

One more thing: if your reel has an anti-reverse bearing, it sits on the drive shaft and only allows rotation one way. When you switch the handle side, the bearing might need to be flipped or the reel might have a separate lever to change the retrieve direction. Consult your manual — this is the most common point of confusion.

When NOT to Switch Sides (Reels That Aren’t Convertible)

Not all reels are made equal. Some spinning reels have a fixed handle design — the handle is permanently attached to the drive shaft. You can’t swap sides without replacing the entire shaft assembly, which is usually not worth the cost.

How to tell? Look at the drive shaft. If it’s a solid piece with the handle molded or riveted on, it’s not convertible. If there’s a visible nut or screw, you’re good. Also check the reel’s parts diagram online — if it doesn’t show a left-hand and right-hand version, it’s probably fixed.

Cheaper reels often fall into this category. They’re built to a price, and conversion isn’t part of the design. If you’re set on switching sides, you might need to buy a different reel. But before you do, ask yourself if the switch is worth it. If you’ve been using the reel for years and never had a problem, maybe it’s not.

There’s also a case where switching sides makes things worse. If you have a baitcasting reel with the handle on the right and you’re right-handed, switching to the left means you’ll have to cast with your left hand or switch hands after every cast. That’s a hassle. Stick with what works for your casting style.

Final Test: Ensuring Smooth Retrieve and Drag

Once the handle is on, give the reel a proper test before you trust it on the water. Attach it to a rod, spool some line, and run through these checks:

1. Turn the handle slowly — it should feel smooth, with no gritty or scraping sensation.
2. Reel in a few yards of line under light tension. The retrieve should be even, and the line should lay flat on the spool.
3. Set the drag to a medium setting and pull line off by hand. The handle should not rotate backward.
4. Cast a practice plug (or a weight) a few times. Notice if the handle side feels natural or if you’re fighting yourself.

If anything feels off, don’t ignore it. A handle that clicks or a drag that slips will only get worse. Take the reel apart again and check your work — most issues are just a misplaced washer or a loose nut.

While the reel is open, it’s a good time to do a quick maintenance pass. Wipe down the drive shaft, apply fresh grease to the gears, and check for any corrosion. This is especially important if you fish saltwater — a little preventive care now saves you from a seized reel later.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I switch the handle on any spinning reel?

No. Many reels are designed for conversion, but some budget models have a fixed handle that can’t be moved. Check for a nut or screw on the handle — if it’s there, you can switch. If the handle is riveted or molded, you’re out of luck.

Do I need to change the drag when I switch sides?

No, the drag system is independent of the handle side. But if you’re opening the reel anyway, inspect the drag washers and make sure they’re clean and properly lubricated. A quick check while you’re in there is smart.

What if the handle is on the left but I’m left-handed — should I switch?

Not necessarily. Many left-handed anglers prefer the handle on the left for spinning reels because it keeps their dominant hand on the rod. That’s actually the standard setup for right-handed anglers too. If it feels comfortable, leave it.

Why does my reel make a clicking sound after I switch the handle?

That’s likely the anti-reverse bearing or the clicker mechanism. Check that the bearing is seated correctly and that the clicker pawl is aligned with the gear. If the sound is rhythmic and only when reeling, it’s probably the bait clicker — that’s normal.

How do I know if my fly reel is reversible?

Look for a pawl that can be flipped or moved to a different slot. Most quality fly reels are reversible, but some budget models aren’t. Consult your reel’s manual or parts diagram — it’ll show the pawl orientation for each retrieve direction.

What to Remember Before You Start

• Confirm your reel is convertible before you take it apart. Look for a nut or screw on the handle.
• Take a photo of the disassembled parts — it’s the best way to remember the order of washers and spacers.
• Work over a clean surface. Those tiny parts vanish in a second.
• Don’t overtighten the handle nut. Hand tight plus a quarter turn is enough.
• Test the drag and retrieve before you hit the water. A quick bench test saves you from a ruined trip.
• If the handle wobbles or grinds after conversion, check for a missing spacer or misaligned anti-reverse bearing.
• When in doubt, consult your reel’s parts diagram or manufacturer instructions — they’re free online and specific to your model.