How to Master Swordfish Cat Goes Fishing: Essential Tips and Techniques

Why Swordfish Are the Ultimate Catch in Cat Goes Fishing

You’ve pulled up plenty of tuna and marlin, but the swordfish is a different beast. It swims deeper, bites slower, and drags harder than anything else in the early-to-mid game. Most players I see try once, lose the fish, and assume it’s luck. It isn’t.

This guide gives you the exact numbers, gear checks, and a repeatable technique to make swordfish a reliable catch. You’ll know what rod and reel you need, which bait actually works, and how to force a bite instead of waiting around.

I’ve spent over 200 hours in Cat Goes Fishing, and I’ve tested every combo that makes sense. The system below works. Follow it step by step, and you’ll land your first swordfish without burning through your gold reserves.

One tool that makes deep-water fishing less guesswork is the Dr.Fish 5 Pack LED Deep Drop Fishing Lights. These water-activated flashers attach to your line and pulse white light at depth, which draws curious fish toward your bait. In Cat Goes Fishing, the visual cue helps you track your line’s depth and position, especially in murky water. They’re not a cheat code, but they cut down the trial-and-error of finding the right fishing spot.

Swordfish Stats and Behavior: What the Game Doesn’t Tell You

Swordfish in Cat Goes Fishing spawn in the deep-water zone, typically below 150 meters. They weigh between 180 and 320 kilograms, with the occasional 400-kg trophy. You’ll get 2,500 XP for a standard catch and 4,000 for a trophy. Sell price ranges from 3,000 to 6,000 gold depending on weight.

Their behavior is what throws most players. Swordfish don’t chase bait aggressively like tuna. They circle your lure for 3 to 5 seconds before striking. If you reel during that window, they spook and swim off. You have to stay patient and let the bite develop.

Once hooked, a swordfish makes three long runs, each lasting 4 to 6 seconds. Between runs, it shakes its head for 2 seconds. That’s your only window to reel in line. If your drag is too tight, the line snaps. Too loose, and the fish runs out your spool.

The bite timing is consistent. After you cast, watch the bobber. A swordfish will cause a slow, deliberate dip, not the sharp jerk you see with smaller fish. Wait for the second dip, then set the hook. That’s the difference between a solid hookset and a missed strike.

The Minimum Gear Checklist (Don’t Fish Without These)

You can’t catch a swordfish with the starter rod. I’ve seen players try, and it ends with a broken line every time. Here’s the minimum gear you need, plus the thresholds that make the fight manageable.

Rod Power and Reel Speed Thresholds

Your rod needs a line strength of at least 80 kilograms. Anything less and the swordfish will snap your line on the first run. The Pro Rod (line strength 100 kg) is the safest minimum. The Master Rod (150 kg) gives you room for error, which matters when you’re learning the fight.

Reel speed matters just as much. You need a retrieve rate of at least 10 meters per second. The Fast Reel II (12 m/s) is the standard choice. With the Turbo Reel (15 m/s), you can recover line between runs quickly enough to keep the fish close.

Don’t skip the boat upgrade. The Deep Sea Boat unlocks the deep-water zone and gives you better stability. Without it, you’ll drift out of the zone mid-fight, and the swordfish will escape.

The Only Two Baits That Work Consistently

Squid and mackerel are the only baits that trigger swordfish reliably. Squid works best in the morning (in-game time 6 AM to 10 AM). Mackerel works better in the evening (6 PM to 10 PM). Other baits like shrimp or sardines get ignored.

Use a hook size of 8 or larger. Smaller hooks let the bait slip out, and swordfish are too smart to bite a bare hook. I’ve tested hook size 6 and 8; both work, but size 8 gives you a better hookup ratio because it sets deeper.

Step-by-Step: How to Trigger a Swordfish Bite

Getting a swordfish to bite isn’t about luck. It’s about positioning and timing. Follow these steps exactly, and you’ll see consistent results.

Positioning Your Boat for the Deep-Water Spawn

Head to the far right edge of the deep-water zone, near the drop-off where the ocean floor falls away. Swordfish patrol this edge. Anchor your boat so your cast lands between 150 and 200 meters deep. Use the depth meter on your screen to confirm. If you’re shallower than 150, you’ll only catch tuna.

Cast straight ahead, not at an angle. A straight cast gives you the most control over the bait’s depth. Let the bait sink to the bottom, then reel up 5 meters. That keeps the bait in the strike zone without dragging on the seafloor.

The ‘Pause-Switch’ Technique for Guaranteed Strikes

This is the trick that turns a slow day into a full cooler. When you see the first bobber dip, press the pause key (Esc on PC, or the pause button on mobile). Wait 2 full seconds. Then unpause. The swordfish will take the bait again, often more aggressively. Set the hook immediately.

Why does this work? The pause resets the fish’s AI timer. Swordfish have a 3-to-5-second hesitation window before committing. Pausing interrupts that window and makes the fish re-evaluate. In practice, it cuts the bite time in half.

One caveat: don’t pause more than once per cast. The game registers multiple pauses as a failed interaction, and the fish swims off. Use it once, and only when you see the first dip.

The Perfect Loadout: Best Rod, Reel, and Bait Combos

Here’s the loadout that makes swordfish fishing as close to automatic as possible. I’ve ranked three combos from budget to premium. The table below shows what each setup costs in gold and what it delivers.

Loadout	Rod	Reel	Bait	Gold Cost	Best For
Budget	Pro Rod (100 kg)	Fast Reel II (12 m/s)	Squid	5,000	First catches, learning the fight
Balanced	Master Rod (150 kg)	Turbo Reel (15 m/s)	Mackerel	9,500	Consistent farming
Overkill	Legendary Rod (200 kg)	Hyper Reel (20 m/s)	Squid	15,000	Trophy hunting, speed runs

The Balanced loadout is the sweet spot for most players. It handles trophy swordfish without breaking your bank. The Overkill setup is worth it only if you’re chasing the 400-kg trophy or want to minimize fight time for XP farming.

For bait, keep both squid and mackerel in your inventory. Switch based on in-game time. That little optimization adds up to 20% more catches per session.

5 Common Mistakes That Cost You the Catch (And How to Fix Them)

Most players lose swordfish to the same five errors. Here’s how to avoid each one.

1. Reeling too early on the bite. Wait for the second bobber dip. Reeling on the first dip spooks the fish. Count to three after the first dip, then set the hook.
2. Using a rod with less than 80 kg line strength. The line snaps on the first run. Upgrade to the Pro Rod at minimum.
3. Setting drag too tight. A tight drag doesn’t stop a swordfish; it breaks your line. Set drag to 70% of your line strength. Let the fish run, then reel during the head-shake pause.
4. Fishing in the wrong zone. The deep-water zone is not the entire right side of the map. It’s the area beyond the 150-meter depth line. Check your depth meter.
5. Ignoring in-game time. Swordfish bite windows are 6-10 AM and 6-10 PM. Fishing outside those hours wastes bait. If you’re in the right spot with the right gear and no bites, skip time to the next window.

Post-Catch Strategy: Sell, Store, or Use for Quests

You’ve landed a swordfish. Now what? The answer changes based on your current goal.

If you’re saving for a boat upgrade, sell the swordfish. A standard 250-kg fish sells for around 4,500 gold. That’s enough to cover a new reel or a chunk of the next rod. Selling is the fastest path to the Legendary Rod.

If you’re leveling up, keep the fish for the quest that asks for a swordfish. The quest gives 5,000 XP and a unique rod cosmetic. It’s a one-time reward, so don’t sell your first catch if you plan to complete it later.

Storing swordfish in the freezer isn’t worth it. They don’t rot, but they also don’t appreciate in value. There’s no market for aged fish. Keep only what you need for quests, sell the rest.

Advanced Tips: Farming Swordfish for Maximum XP and Gold

Once you have the Balanced loadout, you can turn swordfish into a reliable income stream. Here’s how to maximize your return per in-game day.

Fish only during the two bite windows. That’s 8 in-game hours total. Each window yields 4 to 6 swordfish if you’re positioned correctly. That’s 8 to 12 swordfish per day, which translates to 36,000 to 54,000 gold and 20,000 to 30,000 XP.

Use the pause-switch technique on every cast. It speeds up the bite, so you get more casts per window. Don’t skip it.

Upgrade your boat’s fuel capacity first. The deep-water zone is far from the dock, and running out of fuel mid-session loses you time. A full tank lets you fish both windows without returning to shore.

Consider the mobile version’s auto-reel feature. On PC, you have to time the reel manually during the head-shake pause. On mobile, the auto-reel handles that timing, but it’s slower. If you’re on PC, stick with manual. If you’re on mobile, use auto-reel and focus on positioning.

Frequently Asked Questions (With Exact Answers)

What’s the exact weight range for swordfish in Cat Goes Fishing?

Swordfish weigh between 180 and 320 kg, with a rare trophy at 400 kg. The trophy spawns about 5% of the time, usually in the evening window.

Can I catch a swordfish with the basic rod?

No. The basic rod has 50 kg line strength, which snaps instantly. You need at least 80 kg. The Pro Rod is the minimum viable option.

Does the pause-switch technique work on mobile?

Yes. Press the pause button (usually a gear icon) when you see the first bobber dip. Wait 2 seconds, unpause, then set the hook. It works exactly like the PC version.

What’s the best time of day to fish for swordfish?

Two windows: 6 AM to 10 AM and 6 PM to 10 PM. The morning window favors squid bait; the evening window favors mackerel.

Should I use the Dr.Fish LED lights with the in-game bait?

The LED lights help you see your line’s depth and position in murky water. They don’t change the game’s mechanics, but they make it easier to keep your bait in the strike zone. In real life, they attract fish; in the game, they’re a visual aid.

Final Verdict: Is Swordfish Fishing Worth Your Time?

Yes, but only after you meet the gear thresholds. Swordfish offer the best gold-per-hour in the mid-game. The XP is solid too, especially if you’re aiming for level 50 and the Legendary Rod.

If you’re still early in the game, don’t rush. Grind tuna until you can afford the Pro Rod and Fast Reel II. Then come back and follow this system. You’ll land your first swordfish within a few in-game days.

To recap the essentials you can act on right now:

• Use a rod with at least 80 kg line strength, ideally the Pro Rod or better.
• Reel speed matters: get at least 10 m/s, ideally 12 m/s or more.
• Fish only in the deep-water zone below 150 meters, during the two bite windows.
• Use squid in the morning, mackerel in the evening, with hook size 8.
• Wait for the second bobber dip before setting the hook.
• Use the pause-switch technique once per cast to speed up the bite.
• Set drag to 70% of line strength and reel only during the head-shake pause.

That’s the whole system. Go get your swordfish.